One Gearhead’s Unforgettable Pilgrimage to Japan

As a child, the Countach wasn’t on my bed room wall. Nor had been shiny crimson Ferraris or streaking silver Mercedes. As an alternative it was Preliminary D, Scorching Model, Greatest Motoring, HKS, Greddy, APEX’i, Prime Secret, D1GP, Tremendous GT, the Mazda RX-7, Nissan Skyline GT-R, Fuji Speedway, and Suzuka Circuit. Japan was my fanatic Mecca. 

After a long time spent pining for that faraway untouchable place, I went to Japan on the pilgrimage of a lifetime.

However why Japan? 



Chris Rosales Japan Road Trip

Picture by: Chris Rosales / Motor1

It wasn’t the primary place to have a distinguished road racing scene or the primary place to go racing, interval. These had been initially European and American phenomena. Nor was Japan the primary to switch vehicles–Scorching Rodders and Euro outlets obtained there first.

If Japan wasn’t first, what it did finest was democratize efficiency straight from the manufacturing unit flooring, and in contemporary, unimaginable methods. A humble Mitsubishi Lancer might outperform a Ferrari for a fraction of the cash; a Nissan household sedan might pack extra expertise than a up to date Components 1 automobile; Essentially the most centered light-weight sports activities automobile on earth may very well be had on working-class wages.

Japanese vehicles modified the world, spawning a wholly new chapter of automobile tradition, and a brand new technology of fans who discovered Europe stuffy and American sizzling rodders historic. Legends had been written by these early heroes who latched on to Japanese vehicles and ran with them. 

I wished to see for myself the place these legends had been born.



Chris Rosales Japan Road Trip

Picture by: Chris Rosales / Motor1

Tokyo: Touchdown within the coronary heart of Japan

I’m a window seat man. I’ll gladly alternate the liberty to urinate indiscriminately for that first romantic glimpse of the brand new place. And seeing the Tokyo Tower, Rainbow Bridge, and countless sprawl of Tokyo from the suitable aspect of an Airbus A330 was extraordinary.

In that metropolis had been deeply acquainted locations, however ones I by no means knew. From the plane I might see that the Shuto Expressway is formed precisely because it’s rendered in Tokyo Xtreme Racer and the way sq., industrial landfill islands form the Tokyo Bay. 

In that sprawl sat my first targets: Route B, the Bayshore Route, generally known as the Wangan, and C1, the Interior Round Route, each of the Shuto Expressway. The Wangan serves Haneda Airport, and my journey from the airport to my first borrowed automobile started with the legendary expressway, as soon as a mecca of high-speed road racing.



Chris Rosales Japan Road Trip

Picture by: Chris Rosales / Motor1

After a long time spent pining for that faraway untouchable place, I went to Japan on the pilgrimage of a lifetime.

From the again of a Toyota Alphard taxi in rush hour site visitors, it’s troublesome to see how the Wangan may very well be a spot the place—because the legends say—tuners did greater than 200 mph in extremely modified Nissan Skyline GT-Rs, Toyota Supras, and even air-cooled Porsche 911s. 

But as soon as night time falls, and the freeway clears, the previous visions change into abundantly clear. With one straightaway that’s over 5 miles lengthy, near-perfect tarmac, and loads of guardrails, the Wangan is without doubt one of the most ultimate locations on the planet for a high-speed time trial.

Within the basement of Honda’s international headquarters sat an FL5 Civic Sort R, ready only for me. I had simply eight hours with the automobile earlier than leaving Tokyo for my subsequent vacation spot. So I packed the CTR’s itinerary with freeway driving and a cease at a particular and extremely important Honda tuning home.



Chris Rosales Japan Road Trip

Picture by: Chris Rosales / Motor1

Whether or not it was weaponized neurodivergence or weird aptitude, driving on the wrong aspect of the street in a brand-new $50,000 Civic got here as simply as something I’ve ever finished. Driving in Japan was pretty. Orderly. Clear. Calm. Courtesies had been noticed. Drivers allowed house for his or her fellow motorists. Velocity limits had been obeyed. I even discovered shifting with my left hand (reasonably than my proper) extraordinarily logical. Possibly I’m extra of a weeb than I assumed.

I felt a real surge of emotion after I crossed the primary digital toll assortment (ETC) gate and rolled onto the Wangan. It’s only a freeway in spite of everything, but it surely was precisely as I imagined it, precisely just like the racing video games I performed rising up. There have been the freeway markings that I nonetheless don’t absolutely perceive however look deeply cool nonetheless, the acquainted junction names from Tokyo Xtreme Racer, and the way precisely proper each part of freeway felt. 

A lot of the freeway was constructed within the ‘60s for the Tokyo Olympics, making it pretty previous, but it surely stays one thing of an engineering marvel. It has an interior and outer loop that snake round one another and thru skyscrapers, diving underground then rising excessive above Tokyo’s floor stage site visitors. 



Chris Rosales Japan Road Trip

Picture by: Chris Rosales / Motor1

Each nook on the freeway is cambered properly, the tarmac is effectively cared for, and the elevation adjustments make for an fascinating, dynamic drive. At pace, it will have actually been distinctive. Even in site visitors, it was clear why the loop was so favored for racing, even when the fire-breathing GT-Rs or Ferraris have been changed by field vans and Kei vehicles.

But I nonetheless gawked like an annoying vacationer. At every little thing. As an alternative of seeing these landmarks on a display screen, they had been projected into my retinas in actual time. That means is basically assigned after the very fact, and I’m certain one million weary salaryman have seen sufficient of this freeway of their lifetimes. However for me, it felt like a long-awaited chapter in my life closing ultimately. 



Chris Rosales Japan Road Trip

Picture by: Chris Rosales / Motor1

Spoon Sports activities: Honda Tuner in Aeternum

The Wangan took me West towards a Tokyo suburb known as Suginami. Inside Sugninami is without doubt one of the most well-known tuners and elements makers on the planet, a small store known as Spoon Sports activities. I had time to go to only one store whereas in Tokyo, and as I had a Sort R for a day, the selection was clear–When in Rome.

Spoon doesn’t require a lot introduction, however for individuals who don’t know, they constructed the most important and baddest Hondas of all time. Based in 1988 by Tatsuru Ichishima, generally known as Ichi-san, Spoon began as a racing staff that expanded into the aftermarket. 

As a tuner, Spoon is finest recognized for its prowess tweaking naturally aspirated Honda engines. As if to bolster its credentials, Spoon’s engine constructing room is sort of completely glass, stuffed by engine builders who’re seen from the busy road simply outdoors of the store. 



Chris Rosales Japan Road Trip

Picture by: Chris Rosales / Motor1

I parked my FL5 in a close-by lot, then requested for Mr. Daisuke Jomoto, Spoon veteran and supervisor of Sort One, Spoon’s on-site showroom. 

Jomoto-san confirmed me across the store, a meticulously clear and exquisite place. It exists over two flooring: The underside-floor workshop and top-floor showroom, storage space, and overflow bays. The 2 flooring are linked with a automobile carry that feels straight out of a Scorching Wheel diorama. 

After staring on the sealed and local weather managed engine room, I circled to look at the Spoon racing staff making ready its Tremendous Taikyu FL5 for the Fuji Speedway 24 hour race. 



Chris Rosales Japan Road Trip

Picture by: Chris Rosales / Motor1

Spoon continues to be a race staff first, however operates as a standard workshop out of Sort One. It even providers non-Hondas for sure gadgets and does every little thing from common upkeep to full-catalog builds. 

What struck me most was Spoon’s proximity to site visitors and noise, a busy street simply outdoors of the store. This place is a mecca for any Honda lover, but it surely might simply be one other workshop someplace in Tokyo. If it weren’t for the absolutely fledged race automobile belching un-catalyzed fumes into the world, you could possibly nearly by no means guess it was the house of one of the legendary tuning firms on the planet. 



Chris Rosales Japan Road Trip

Picture by: Chris Rosales / Motor1

Preliminary D: The Mountain Passes That Exported Japan’s Driving Tradition

After a packed first day in Tokyo, I might lastly calm down and luxuriate in Japan as extra of a slow-going vacationer than a rushed automobile journalist. My conveyance was the Honda N-One, which I’ve reviewed individually for Japan Month. It might carry me and a few associates for a journey to the countryside. 

From Honda HQ, I drove to Chiba to fulfill my touring companions–Julian, Sonja, Steven, and Steven, a few of whom rented a automobile to expertise the Preliminary D fantasy on their very own.

I trundled as much as the rental lot as everybody was getting located with their vehicles. Julian selected a Honda S660. Sonja, a modified Toyota GR86. The 2 Stevens would journey with us in activates the way in which to our keep in Tsumagoi, and the identical for the itinerary we had deliberate for the day after. 



Chris Rosales Japan Road Trip

Picture by: Chris Rosales / Motor1

We had simply two targets: Trip, and drive the mountain go that modified automobile tradition eternally. That go is Mt. Haruna, recognized higher as Mt. Akina.

With a shiny and early begin the subsequent day, we tried JDM McDonalds (it was scrumptious) and drove our vehicles to Mt. Haruna the good distance. I plotted a route the night time earlier than, which took us down one other well-known street from the Preliminary D anime: Mt. Usui. It was unplanned, however was an exceptionally nice detour that we didn’t know we wanted. 

What I didn’t point out was that my crew are additionally a unit of Preliminary D nerd-weebs, so we knew each element in regards to the street. We all know that it’s Keiichi Tsuchiya’s dwelling street. We keep in mind the anime scene the place Takumi fearlessly piloted his AE86 by means of the fearsome C-121 hairpin to safe his victory over Affect Blue. However we by no means knew how tiny the street really is. 



Honda N One RS Review

Picture by: Chris Rosales / Motor1

We had simply two targets: Trip, and drive the mountain go that modified automobile tradition eternally.

I lamented not having the Sort R for my Gunma journey, however the N-One grew to become the GOAT of the scenario. It had zero energy and nil grip, but it surely let me expertise Usui on the restrict of dealing with. We additionally apparently picked the right time to drive the street, as we had all of it to ourselves. The one different particular person we noticed was a random legend in a Caterham Seven out for a drive.

Each second felt surreal and it was a genuinely fulfilling driving street. Each time we took a break, all we might do was chortle and marvel that we had been driving the Mt. Usui. It was snaking, harmful, and tight, with open gutters and lowering radius hairpins. It was additionally lovely, with a tree cover overhead and colourful leaves adorning the street. At one turn-out, we noticed an overgrown tunnel within the woods, which really led to the bridge that served as a backdrop for a couple of scenes in Preliminary D. It was the stuff goals are product of, fulfilling each final a part of the fantasy. 



Chris Rosales Japan Road Trip

Picture by: Chris Rosales / Motor1

We took the again manner up Mt. Haruna and saved the notorious downhill run for final, and stopped at Haruna lake beforehand. We mentally ready ourselves to drive the street and stopped one final time on the start-finish line. 

Scattered across the space had been mementos to the anime sequence, like a painted manhole cowl within the fashion of the manga and a information map displaying the place every important location was. Lastly, we embarked.



Chris Rosales Japan Road Trip

Picture by: Chris Rosales / Motor1

Mt. Akina was one thing of a religious expertise, even with commuter site visitors denying us a pleasant clear drive. No less than, for a bunch of nerds who spend time driving a digital rendition of the street of their spare time, it was the closest factor to assembly a celeb I might think about. It’s a surprisingly open and quick street, with loads of visibility, but it surely was additionally comparatively flat and uncambered. I spotted that it’s not all that notable as a driving street, but it surely feels extra like a rigorously graded observe reasonably than a mountain go. 

All of the well-known options had been there, the open gutters you could possibly hook your tires into (in fact I did), the 5 hairpin turns that had been so pivotal within the first season of Preliminary D, and the quick last part with the three-lane passing zone that allowed Takumi to defeat Ryosuke of their last battle. 



Chris Rosales Japan Road Trip

Picture by: Chris Rosales / Motor1

What’s most surreal is how effectively the anime rendered the scenes across the street, and the way they really feel so unbelievably true to life. It’s like I’d been driving the street my entire life, as acquainted as a favourite uncle or a consolation meal. 

It wasn’t the driving excessive that Usui gave me, but it surely was price seeing the street with my very own eyes. There are few issues within the automobile world as culturally important as Preliminary D and Mt. Akina. Due to Preliminary D, two generations of fans all over the world assault mountain roads and worth the enjoyment of driving greater than the looks of proudly owning a automobile. That’s one thing to have fun.



Chris Rosales Japan Road Trip

Picture by: Chris Rosales / Motor1

Going Dwelling: Goodbye to the Nice Nippon

I’ve by no means felt depressed like I did when the taxi returned me to Haneda airport. I didn’t wish to go dwelling after two weeks in Japan. It’s as fantastic, bizarre, pretty, and lovable as you suppose it’s. And although I chronicled simply three days of my journey, I fell much more deeply in love with the place than I might’ve imagined. 

Issues simply work in a different way in Japan. This comes with some caveats–If I wished to maneuver there, for instance, issues could be so much tougher on objective. It’s not an ideal place, however it’s particular and distinctive. Greater than something, it’s price visiting once more, once more, and once more. 



Chris Rosales Japan Road Trip

Picture by: Chris Rosales / Motor1

Past the world of vehicles, there are deep tenets guiding Japanese tradition, evidenced by the quite a few shrines throughout the nation and the ritualistic motions of on a regular basis life. The small processes and wonders of life are celebrated in Japan, and persons are aware of each other. It’s completely against the life-style I grew up with in America.

Ever since I left, I wished to return. And as I stared out of the aspect of one other plane leaving Tokyo, wanting down the barrel of one other 13 hours of clenching my bladder shut, I felt a way of grief burdening my coronary heart. I’ll by no means have my first Japan expertise once more. However I couldn’t consider a extra excellent, soul-nourishing place to return to.

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